Day 6: Siena & Civita

After 5 days of running like crazy all over Italy (which I, personally, don't mind...it was fun), we decided to slow down on day 6. We actually slept in a little...I did my hair which, for some reason, always does crazy things in foreign countries. These last 3 days in general were a little more relaxed and we didn't take as many pictures. While I'm thinking of it, let me pass on some advice. If you ever go to Italy, take lots of videos! We only have a few and wish we had more. Whenever we watch them, we are immediately transported back.

Siena

Siena is famous for The Palio - a horse race that takes place in this piazza (Piazza del Campo). The 17 neighborhoods that make up Siena, compete fiercely against each other and apparently the tension of these divided loyalties can be felt year round. It's not like Siena is a big city. In America, it would probably be like your block completing against the next block over. Anyway, it is a fascinating tradition and I wish we could have been there in August when it takes place. You should watch this video to see how it all goes down. It is awesome (and kind of funny). I didn't capture the full beauty of Siena in my pictures, but this video is beautiful to watch.

There is a university in Siena so there were lots of young people around, couples making out, etc. Piazza del Campo felt a bit like a hangout. So we sat, ate good food, and people watched.

I was telling Andrew how I wished I knew how to put some of the pictures together to make a panoramic shot. He was post call and suffering from sleep-deprivation but said, "I bet I could do it". Whamo! Is there anything this guy can't do? 

I sent him to bed before he could add the finishing touches, but I still think it's a pretty good workup. I could have spent all day (with the right food, of course) lounging in this piazza.

We got tickets to tour the inside of the Duomo, Baptistry, and Crypt, including a trip up to the top.

I'm not crazy about the strong Gothic influence, but you can't help but be amazed by the detail and ornateness (word?).

This was from inside the crypt that was excavated and opened to the public around 2003 (probably from 1270). I don't think Andrew was allowed to take this picture so enjoy everyone!

From up top 

Civita

After taking our time in Siena, we made our way to Civita, a relatively unknown place in the middle of absolutely nowhere. This is probably a good time to explain that Andrew is an AVID and CRAZY trip planner. He LOVES planning vacations. He probably has at least 5 vacations planned in his head right now that we have no immediate plans to go on. Reading about far-off places is something he does to relax (when he should be studying)...that, and epsn.com. 

It goes without saying that Andrew spent hours upon hours planning every detail of our trip and making sure there were practically no loose ends. He also is a bit of a "trip perfectionist" and can't miss out on anything. He must read about every possibility, research to make sure he's getting the best deal, and investigate all the things that "no one else knows about". So I wasn't all that surprised when he was all giddy about a place called Civita. A place NOT in Fodor's or well-known to most travelers (it's not even in wikipedia!). Apparently Rick Steves raved about it, so we ventured deep into the countryside to find this artist's dream. 

At dusk, we finally arrived.

Rick Steves said to approach this hill town with, "the same respect and sensitivity you would a dying relative, because - in a sense- that's Civita".

You can see that it is eroding on all sides and the only way to enter the town is by a narrow footbridge. Mules that used to carry supplies across the bridge have been replaced by vespas. No cars. It is the antithesis of the modern world, and all the more charming for it.

The 12th century Romanesque arch. The rock wall made by Etruscans 2,500 years ago.

We heard differing reports about how many people actually live here...it is likely around 15. There are quite a few people who come for the summer and have vacation homes. But it felt quiet and sleepy and we saw only two people as we walked along the cobblestone streets. We told them how we were starving and asked if there was anywhere to eat (expecting the answer to be no). The woman (a permanent resident) walked into this square (below) and shouted at an open window to another woman standing in her kitchen (it was a bed & breakfast I later learned). She asked if the kitchen was open and the woman at the b&b told us to come on up.

Yum!

I felt bad that we were the only people there and this woman opened up her kitchen just to cook us dinner. But it was also really cool to have the place all to ourselves.

Forgive our blurry pictures. This little place would be perfect for a romantic weekend trip (if any of you take weekend trips to Italy...:)).

Goodbye Civita. May you not erode before we return.

Day 5: Tuscany (Lucca, Volterra, Firenze)

Day 5 was devoted to Tuscany. Again, so incredibly beautiful but yet so different from what we had seen the previous days. 

Lucca

Our first stop was the walled city of Lucca.

We had a delicious lunch in one of the smaller squares...until we got attacked by ants.

Andrew found some bitters for us to drink. He has fond memories of drinking a bitter every night on his balcony before going to bed as a missionary. They taste exactly how you might imagine: bitter. But I actually really like them too. Despite being reminiscent of cough syrup, after you swallow you can't help but want to experience it all over again.

Marika was kind enough to be our personal photographer. It was so much nicer than spending SO much time setting up our camera for timed pictures (which is what we normally do).

After Lucca, we drove through the Tuscan countryside on our way to Volterra

The sky was moody

I really could just post picture after picture... the light was constantly changing and all the colors were so incredible. Hopefully you get the idea. Drive through Tuscany when you go to Italy.

Volterra

Tuscany is a huge area, sort of like a state within Italy. As you drive through you occasionally see a quaint little town built on top of a hill. Each one is likely charming, amazing, and well worth a visit. Especially since most of them see few tourists. We wanted to see them ALL but for lack of time we decided on a more well-known village, Volterra.

The view from the top of the hill

How do they make everything look so beautiful? Are Italian kids required to take horticulture, art and design classes in grade school? Or are Italians just genetically gifted at this stuff? 

"The Arch Gate" dates back to 5th-4th century BC

As we were leaving we were surprised to find this excavation of an old Roman theater. 

Firenze

To finish off the day, we drove to Firenze (known as "Florence" in America). I can't figure why we change the name of Italian cities. I LOVED FIRENZE.

When I was still in college, Andrew told me that the only way he would take me to Italy (someday) was if I took an art history class. He wanted me to appreciate the art in Italy. I took the class (and loved it) but I remember one time, the professor showed us a painting and said that the first time she saw it in real life, she cried. It was really abstract with different bright colored lines going in different directions. There was no identifiable subject as far as I could tell and no discernible quality (for me) that made it outstanding in any way.  I sat there thinking, "how in the world did this make you cry?" 

I was not being critical of the professor, because I know that I can have strong reactions to music that I can't always explain to people who don't appreciate music the same way I do. However, while I was in Italy, and particularly in Florence, I understood on a whole new level how art and beauty can create strong emotional reactions. 

Construction of the Duomo began in 1296. For many many years, it didn't have a roof because no one was sure how to construct such a massive cupola that would be architecturally sound.

In 1418, Brunelleschi won a competition to design the dome. Over 18 years he oversaw it's construction but he died right as construction began on the lantern at the top. It wasn't completed until 1461 and the facade wasn't completed until 1887. 

So to quickly review the timeline, that means it began in 1296 and wasn't finished, as we see it now, until 1887. Almost 600 years! Can you imagine spending your entire life working on a project that you would  never see finished? It is amazing to me that this wasn't the effort of just one generation or one brilliant mind. It was a project that was passed on from one generation to the next and what was once only imagined as a possibility, was made a reality as discoveries were made in structural engineering and architecture. 

Patience! Faith! These are the lessons I learned in a way I hadn't thought of before.  Look what can be born of patience, careful planning, constant effort, and faith that something amazing will come of all your work someday:

I can draw many comparisons to my own life. A friend of mine sent me a link to this article which articulates my feelings better than I can do myself.

Andrew was reading all the nitty gritty facts to us courtesy of Fodor's

Moving on to the Baptistery doors which are in the same Piazza across from the Duomo:

I'll let you read about Ghiberti's doors yourself. Michelangelo declared them so beautiful that they could serve as the Gates of Paradise. When you see them in real life (even though these aren't the originals) you will concur with those sentiments.

Ponte Vecchio

 

Walking around Firenze...everything was so alive and euphoric. We stood in Piazza della Signoria beholding the David (copy), drinking the most delicious hot chocolate in the world, listening to a street performer play "Time to Say Goodbye" on an electric guitar. We took it all in. Perfect.

But after this, Marika hopped on a train headed for the Milano airport and left us. We were so sad. She was the life of the party.

We did get to see a little of Firenze in the morning but unfortunately didn't have time for any museums. A true travesty! Next time :)