That time we hiked the Cinque Terre with 3 kids...

We honestly never planned on hiking the Cinque Terre with our kids. In fact, we weren't even going to go back there. It was one of my favorite places the first time we came to Italy (I have LOTS of favorites). But we are trying to stick to mostly new places and Cinque seemed difficult to do with kids.

But then some of my family members came. Andrew knew he really only had one day to show them anything because he would be working all the other days. After finding out what they wanted to see and thinking about what would be the most difficult thing to do without an Italian speaker, we decided to take them to the Cinque Terre. I am so glad we did.

We got a little bit of a late start but it was only a 2 hour drive to La Spezia. However, on the drive there I quickly realized that I had done a poor job of packing for the day. I forgot to refill Esme's formula container (I've given up trying to breastfeed her but still pump a little). So I only had enough formula for 3 bottles. I also forgot jackets for the boys for when it cooled off in the evening. I seriously must have completely lost my mind because I had thought of both of these particular things extensively as I was packing and somehow I still managed to get in the car without them. There were a few other little details that I had missed. The formula made me the most nervous because I am almost positive I wouldn't be able to find any in the Cinque Terre. I used to think bottle feeding was so much easier than breast feeding but I was SO wrong. I digress.

When we got to La Spezia, the gps took us to the train station but it was not the train station we wanted. However, we found amazing free parking spots right next to the "wrong" station so we hopped on there and took the train to the right one. Catching this train involved a lot of frantic running to get on before the doors closed. I was so glad that we had a lot of adults around to help with the kids. It honestly would not have been possible without them.

It ended up that going to the wrong station worked out perfectly and we made it to the main La Spezia station in time to catch the train we needed.

They loved the train ride. Except they were expecting a subway for some reason and were upset that we weren't underground. Luckily we went under some long tunnels and they were satisfied in the end.

We started out in Riomaggiore.

We have a watercolor of this picture that we bought the last time we came to Cinque Terre. 

A stairway off a very narrow alley. Whenever the boys get into an argument, I make them sit on a step in our house and work it out. Then they have to hug. So I have seen this scene many times.

After taking a few pictures, we went to catch the train to Manorola but found out that we had just missed it and there wouldn't be another one for at least an hour. Since we had gotten a late start, we worried we wouldn't get a chance to really show them the best part of the Cinque Terre. There was only one option and it definitely wasn't one we had planned on. We decided to do the same hike that we did as a couple a few years ago and hike over the hill to Manorola. This was kind of exciting because it is a beautiful hike. But it was also a little terrifying because our kids were with us. Luke and Cam are great boys with lots of energy, but late in the afternoon I was afraid they would tire out quickly, start whining, and want to be carried a lot. I had Esme in the baby carrier and I was worried that I had dressed her too warmly in her footie pjs, plus we didn't have much milk for her.

My brother Jerry became Luke's best buddy which made Luke indescribably happy

Miraculously it turned out great. The boys had more energy than any of the adults and hiked like champs. They only needed to be carried a little bit. Plus, they absolutely loved it. No whining. No complaining. They loved "climbing the mountain". Esme didn't love it quite as much but the milk situation turned out fine and carrying her wasn't as difficult as I anticipated.

Boys pretend their water bottles are cars while the rest of us take a short break

As I was hiking I kept thinking of how surreal it was to be sharing something I enjoyed so much with my kids. It was so fun to see them love it too. Of course they don't quite understand what a rare opportunity it is, but hopefully it will be memorable for them.

The boys adore their sister

Hiking down into Manorola

Every year, a local artisan creates a "Way of the Cross" for Easter. If you look closely you can see the figurines carrying the cross up the mountain. You can also see a nativity scene. 

Waiting for train to Vernazza (my sister Erin)

We didn't stay long in Manorola. Just long enough to get some gelato. Then we took the train to Vernazza just in time for sunset. Veranzza is one of my favorites because you can get down right next to the water and I love the boats along the dock. The town itself is charming although a few years back it suffered a mudslide and you can still see the damage left behind on some of the buildings. It gives it character.

Luke with Aunt Michele

Andrew, Luke, Cam, my brother Jerry, his wife Melanie, Esme, me, my sister Michele, my sister Erin

After the sun set we caught the last train of the night back to our original train station. It was a long day. And I can't believe how happy the kids were considering we really didn't eat much,were probably dehydrated, and forgot jackets. A little miracle. They fell asleep the instant the car started.

Day 4: Saturday

Today started off as a normal Saturday. Even though we are not here for vacation, we feel a particular need to go and explore whenever Andrew has time off from work. But there were just normal life things to get done today. Andrew had some work emails to attend to. I made French toast with Nutella, learned how to use the washing machine, and did a little cleaning, etc. It was raining but I still made the boys go run outside when it let up a little. They had so much fun. They would be fine if we just stayed here everyday and played outside. I always wondered if there would ever be a backyard big enough or interesting enough where I could just send them out for hours of entertainment. I guess I finally found their perfect backyard in the Tuscan countryside.

Our back door

Back door

Andrew and I took turns going for a run in the afternoon. The sun finally came out during my run and  the view was absolutely spectacular. I wished I had my camera, but then I was sort of glad that instead of going nuts taking pictures I could just enjoy it in the moment without trying to capture it (but I went back later to take pictures anyway). There were sheep in the field next to the road and the countryside was green and rolling as usual. I want to run along that road every day.

Later, we got in the car to do some grocery shopping and suddenly the car wouldn't start. We were getting a little frustrated and wondering what in the world we would do if our car was broken. But then Andrew found that one of the battery plugs was undone and was able to fix it. There seems to be a pattern emerging this vacation of highs and lows. One moment there is a scene of great beauty that takes our breath away and the next moment we are trying to start a dead car. For example, we drove around the city a little and found an awesome view of Siena with the sun just beginning to set. It was perfect. Then I took the boys to a park where one of them had an accident and peed his pants and Esme needed a diaper change where I discovered a terrible rash had emerged. So my kids were miserable and crying and I had to comfort them and get them home to recover. That is just how it goes.



Another important note is that some of my siblings arrived this evening. Erin, Michele, Jerry and Melanie all came to spend the week with us. Most of them work for Jet Blue and were able to get standby tickets. It will be fun to have them here.

Day 3: trip to San Gimignano

It may be a little ambitious to think I can post everyday. We will see.

Today was just a lazy morning (as most mornings are turning out to be). It was rainy so I let the boys watch some movies while I wrote the blog post for the day before. Andrew got home a little early (with flowers and groceries that sweet man!). He made some carbonara with pancetta and beschamel sauce. Then we took a little trip to San Gimignano which is about 30 minutes away. The boys don't like getting in the car. Sightseeing clearly isn't their idea of a good time. But they do have fun chasing birds in the piazza. And there are always birds and piazza's around.

We loved San Gimignano. On the way there, we told the boys the story of the warring families that competed against each other by building one tall tower after another. They like the stories, particularly when Andrew tells them. The towers make it easy to spot San Gimignano in the distance and the countryside is GORGEOUS.

We arrive and walk up the Main Street where there are some great shops to wander in and out of. There is artwork and all kinds of handicrafts. Andrew pops in his favorite tie store, "Andrew's Ties". It might be one of my favorite streets for window shopping. At the top there is an open piazza where, you guessed it, a lot of pigeon chasing takes place.

 It is in this place that I start to notice people staring at us. Maybe they are thinking about how adorable my kids are but I suspect by the look on their faces that they are wondering why in the world we decided to bring our kids to Italy with us. Of course, Andrew and I have already had our turn coming as a couple alone, so coming with our kids doesn't feel like a sacrifice. It feels like Christmas. It is fun to share it with them even if they don't totally appreciate it. There are moments where it feels so magical...and then one of them will have to go potty RIGHT NOW and the magic is postponed for reality. Such is the beauty of life.

It is also in this place that Luke decided to give some chocolate gelato another try and liked it. Victory! There was a sign on the gelateria that claimed to have award winning "best gelato". What a find!! But after we finished our very good gelato, we turned the corner to find yet another gelateria with signage claiming "Awarded best gelato in the WORLD!!". Apparently there are still wars going on in San Gimignano but they have replaced towers with gelato.

Day 2 in Italy

Benvenuti to my series of posts devoted to our stay in Siena, Italy. I'm hoping to write down some daily notes about our experiences so our family never forgets this trip. Normally, they won't be as long as this one.

Over a year ago, Andrew had the idea for a research project that would be a perfect fit for the international retinablastoma referral center in Siena, Italy. So he emailed them. Then he worked with his department at the University of Michigan to get funding and put the plans in motion. The rest of the family (myself and the kids) decided to join too, unfunded :(. I won't go into all the details but it wasn't as easy as I've made it sound. However, it was initially just a thought and with A LOT of time, effort, preparation, and certainly a stroke of providence, we are finally here for one month!

Today I woke up with the boys at the crack of dawn. I was initially reminded of all the conveniences that I am accustomed to in America that are not standard in other parts of the world. I was happy to find a toaster but it worked differently and took a few tries to get the toast just right. And I had to use it on the floor next to the front door because there is no outlet in the kitchen. Odd, but not a big deal. Luckily we brought a huge Costco-sized jar of peanut butter for Luke. But I can already tell at the rate he is requesting it, that we have not brought enough. Cam readily accepted toast with nutella instead. I can't believe we are in a country that produces some of the best food in the world, a place where people come JUST to find joy in eating, and Luke would rather starve. But that is a different blog post entirely.



We opened the windows, got dressed and the boys and I went outside to explore the olive tree grove and playground area that is in our backyard. Our apartment is attached to a bed and breakfast. We chose it for the grounds that give us an excellent view of the Tuscan countryside and for the rustic playground equipment. There is a little soccer field, swings, climbing ropes, a seesaw and a bocce court (there is also a pool but it is closed until summer). It is a large area, surrounded by gardens and the previously mentioned grove of olive trees. There is even a chicken coup!

Going outside, without coats, exploring with the boys was so much fun. Especially after the Alaska-like weather we have had in Michigan this winter.

The apartment itself is simple and rustic. I love the high ceilings and little architectural details. There are a few things I don't like about it. Sometimes I feel like I'm camping. But complaining at all sort of puts me in a category of people I don't want to be associated with. Like people who say Hawaii is too hot or New York City is too crowded. We are living in Tuscany! There is nothing to complain about. It is amazing.

After everyone was awake and ready to go, we drove around and oriented ourselves a little. Then we parked at the mall and ate some of Andrew's favorite food from his mission days, piadina. They are amazing. But even more than the food, I think Andrew loved talking with the store owner in Italian. Instant camaraderie. I know I've only been here a few days, but it seems like it is more common here to find people who know how to socialize and interact with strangers as if they are friends. I'm sure I will expand on that thought a little later.

piadina

From the mall there are a series of escalators that take you up to the entrance of the old city of Siena. We probably rode on at least 5 very long escalators. The boys loved it. Then we spent the afternoon dawdling and meandering around the narrow streets of the old city. At the Piazza del Campo the boys LOVED chasing the pigeons. When Andrew and I visited the Piazza del Campo alone years before, we thought Luke and Cam would love running around that place. We were right. So it felt a little dreamy to actually watch them laughing and chasing the pigeons while yelling "birdie! birdie!". I don't really like pigeons but now I see their value.

we have about a hundred pictures that look somewhat like this. it was too much fun to watch them.

little freaky

A large group of boys, probably young college kids, sat nearby and obviously liked the spectacle. They only spoke Italian but had this innocent gang-like quality about them. I can't quite put my finger on it. Think "West Side Story Jets" or "Sandlot" ...something like that. One of them had the Bieber quoff. They probably had as much fun watching my crazy boys chase pigeons as I had watching them burn time because they can.

see the band of boys to the left

Without any obvious explanation, a procession of middle school-aged children marched across the Piazza following one lucky boy proudly holding a contrada (neighborhood) flag. Is it a holiday? Are they showcasing their neighborhood pride? Does this happen everyday? Is this an after-school activity? We will never know.



We got some gelato. I think I may have built up gelato in Luke's mind a little too much. I thought it would be the one staple of Italian cuisine that he would like. But he didn't. I have to include that little detail because I'm sure one day he will realize how crazy that is. Perhaps the goal of this trip is for him to enjoy a cone of gelato like everyone else on the planet.

The rest of the day was spent getting groceries and preparing our first home-cooked meal. Kids were in bed well after 9. We must do better tomorrow.